12/5/2023 0 Comments C 41 processing at homeJust leave it like this for about a minute. Sorry for that lame pun! Put the tank on a steady surface and pour in the stab. After this, it is already STAB time! No! No daggers, no knives. I normally do this 12 times, since it takes about 30 seconds each time. Fill the tank, inverse it 10 times, pour out the water and repeat. When you put the BX back into its bottle, you‘ll need warm, running water. Then pour in the BX and just do the same thing like before. About 10 seconds before time runs out, pour the CD back into its bottle, put the tank down, close the bottle, and put it back if you want to do a second film later or put it in storage. Because your heater is of no use if you only heat up the still water around the heater and the rest cools off. This will first help you use all the chemicals, not only the parts next to your film, but it will also help the water in the tank to flow around and keep the same temperature. Put the tank back into the water bath and just move it around there gently. Close the tank and put the funnel in the bottle. The time starts when you start pouring it. You will have your manual at your side, so you will always be able to check how long you will have to use each part of the process.įirst off, pour the CD into your tank. This can vary between minutes and an hour, depending on how crazy-hot you poured in your water and we just started at processing. We skip the part where you wait to get the right temperature. After you loaded up the film, put the tank into the water bath as well. I won‘t explain the rest, since there are tons of tutorials on this out there. As you know in this process, no light should get to the film. You do not need it, but better be safe than sorry. I only use the trash bag because I can trust that there is no dust in it. You take the scissors, the film and the tank, put them into the trash bag and the trash bag under your bed's blanket. But I for my part, like to just naturally heat up with the heater. You can speed up this process by adding hot water or adding cold water. After a few go's, you will almost know how warm it has to be and you will be able to pour in the almost exact temperature. This will now have to wait a little while until all is at 30☌. It is crucial that you keep control over the water‘s temperature because there is basically no tolerance in temperature for the process. Also, put the thermometer and the aquarium heater into it and fill the tank with warm water. Mix them according to the manual in the package and pour each part (CD for Color Developer, BX for Bleach/Fix and Stab for Stabilisator) into one bottle, close it and label it accordingly. I use 500ml working solution, this means I can keep the 1-liter kit for twice as long. You can slow this process down if you get yourself a Tetanal Protection Spray, which puts a film of gas (heavier than air, lighter than water) on top of your chemicals without affecting their ability to process. They will oxidate and turn bad faster if you leave bottles open and so on. Third, try to avoid useless air-contact with your chemicals. But don‘t worry, each Tetanal pack has a manual in it with a nice chart and processing times. Second, the chemicals will weaken pretty fast, this means the more film you processed already in this solution, the more time it will take. I will show you the 30☌ way, because you can easily control this temperature, it is nice to handle and it is not too fast. There are different ways to process C41, the standard is on 38☌, but this is too hot for me and pretty fast, there is the 45☌ express process and the 30☌ slower process. This helps if you want to process two films at one go and they have different speeds. Ok, first of all, you need to know that C41 is a normed process, this means that all films whichever ASA they are, take the same amount of time to process.
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